Taco Bell (Hero Way)

Look, I romanticize gravel-lot trucks and immigrant kitchens, not drive-thru chains, so this one starts with a handicap. That said, the takeout ran better than I expected: the veg cheese grilled burrito and chicken quesadilla did their job, the grilled cheese burrito was genuinely good, and the nacho fries stole the whole show. Credit where it is due, Hayden and his crew kept it courteous and communicative through a rush, and that kind of grace under pressure deserves a shout.

But the cracks show. I have waited thirty minutes for fast food in a dining room that did not smell great, and I once rolled up at midnight only to be told they were out of beef, which at a beef joint is a special kind of letdown. With this much real food nearby, this is a convenience play, not a destination.